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24th May 2023
05:46pm BST
Set the Scene
As someone who frequented Grace's (the bar which preceded Neighbourhood Naas) in the past, the transformation of the space is complete, it must have taken them two weeks to scrub the smell of stale fags out of the interior, but they've managed to make it smell like a luxury homeware gift store. The interior oozes luxury with fresh cut flowers, and flickering candles everywhere you look, while every surface is polished, scrubbed, and glinting with an impossible level of sheen. The bar in the front can be used to grab a quick drink, and the space behind has a mix of small two-person tables and larger booths and tables suitable for larger groups. When I was there a couple of weeks back there was a very glitzy 30th taking place in the back, with other big roundy birthday celebrations happening at different tables.
The Food
I was there for one of the first days of their new seasonal menu, which was absolutely stuffed to the gills with Summer flavours. Kicking off with tuna belly served with razor-thin slices of turnip, smoked avocado and an earthy element of softened basil oil, the dish hit all the marks that you look for in a Summer starter- light, bright and refreshing. The ingredient of the season white asparagus was given the sprightly Germanic treatment, served with thick unctuous hollandaise sauce, a length of wild garlic leaf which seemed a bit redundant and a plate-lickable burnt hazelnut dressing. The dish came with poached hen eggs- whose yokes did indeed gleam that reddy-orange only gotten from a hen that scratches around a farm- this dish would be a handy one if you were aiming for a more brunchy option. The filling came in the form of dessert of pan purdue which quashed any whispers of hunger with each stodgy mouthful, perfectly softened with the brûlée crunch on top, you'd wonder whether they did it the French way and used day-old bread such was its bounce and lift.
The Drink
They have an extensive wine list which comes in book form- a mix of traditional and truly exciting natty bottles. Exciting enough that you want to try something new but familiar enough that you can go a bit daring. A nod to its former glory as a pub, there's a full bar which has a great cocktail list with zingy and unusual items dotted throughout.
The Service
Personable and friendly, the staff made us feel super taken care of and welcomed, without the cloying quality that can sometimes come from fancier restaurants. They were the type of people you'd gravitate towards to at a party and hang on to like limpets for fear of social interactions.
Prices From?
I had heard murmurs of the price point being high, but honestly, for a luxe location serving high-class dishes, it really isn't. The Sunday lunch menu is a great way to get a flavour of what the team do, 2 courses for €40 or 3 for €45. It will never be somewhere you stop by on a whim, it will always be a special occasion a reason to treat yourself, and it's exactly what Naas needs.
Where is it?
1 North Main Street, Naas, you can keep up with them on Instagram here.
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